I have an older home with the old style, two pronged
outlets that are not grounded. I’m
concerned about having my electrical system properly grounded, but I don’t
really understand how a grounding system works.
All I know is that it is supposed to prevent you from getting shocked.
Can you tell me a little bit about it?
R.P., San Mateo
Grounding an electrical system is more than just driving
a grounding rod and connecting it to the main panel. It is a matter of providing a path of least
resistance for electricity to return to its source, to prevent it from
traveling back through our bodies, outlets, and appliances. To understand grounding, it is important to
know how electricity works, and how it travels through a house’s electrical
system.
Electricity can basically be
broken down into two elements, voltage and amps. A good analogy for electricity is pressurized
water in a pipe, like the water lines in your house. Water is similar to the electron flow in an
electrical current. As water flows
through a pipe, the electrons in an electrical current flow through a wire, or
any similar conductive material. Voltage
is similar to the water pressure in the pipe, and amperage is similar to the
volume of water that comes out the end of the pipe. The common voltage for residential
construction is 120/240 volts, and the common amperage is 100 amps.
The one golden rule about
electricity is that it always wants to get back to its source. That is why electrical systems need to
utilize at least two wires, a hot and a neutral. The hot wire is the one that carries the current
to house, and the neutral wire is to provide a return path to the utility or
source of the power. Unfortunately, this
is not a completely safe system because electricity has the ability to travel
through other conductive objects as well as the ground we stand on. The grounding portion of an electrical system
is designed to provide a safe, alternate path for electricity to travel back to
its source, without the possibility of traveling through a person or an
object.
The grounding system for a
house, starts at the main panel. In the
main panel, there are usually two hot conductors, each 120 volts, that supply
the electrical power to the panel, and there is also a neutral conductor that
acts as the return path back to the utility.
Since the neutral conductor is the dedicated source back to the utility,
all potential paths that an electrical
current can travel on, need to be connected or “bonded” to this neutral wire.
This is accomplished by
connecting a “grounding wire (usually
just a bare copper wire), to all of the panel boxes, outlets, appliances and
metal pipes in the house, and connecting the other end to the neutral in the
main panel. The interesting thing about this connection to the neutral line is
that this is only done in a main panel, and not in a sub panel. In a sub panel, the neutral wires and
grounding wires must be kept separate, and not connected together. This is why the neutral buss bar located in
a sub panel, is isolated from the ground
connections by plastic insulators.
If the neutrals and grounds
are connected together in a sub panel, and there was a short to the ground, the
electrical current would have the ability to travel through other circuits in
the house, potentially injuring a person in another area.
Many accidents occur ever
year where someone is electrocuted by touching the metal housing of an
appliance, metal water line or metal furnace ducting, because an electrical
current from a short, was running though it.
The current in these items was just waiting for a path back to ground,
and in each case, the person touching the item, provided that path. A person’s safety is the most important
reason to have a properly grounded electrical system.
To properly ground an electrical outlet, you
need to connect one end of a ground wire to the base of the outlet, to the
green screw, and the other end to grounded surface. If your house wiring contains a grounding
(bare copper) wire, it is probably attached to the metal wall box that houses
the outlet. In this case, you can
connect the ground wire from the outlet directly to the box. This can be done with either a special screw
or clip.
If there is no grounding
wire in the wiring, you must run a ground wire to another grounded surface such
as the electrical sub panel, or a metal water pipe that has been connected at
some point, to the grounding system. This is the only way to guarantee that
there is an alternate path for electricity to flow back to its source.
Whenever you are dealing
with electricity, it is always best if you consult with a competent electrical
contractor. Properly grounding an
electrical system is not difficult, but it can be very technical, and there are
a lot of specialized fittings and hardware.
If electrical work is done incorrectly, or carelessly, it will not
provide the protection it should.
John R.
Schneider is a licensed general building contractor and a certified residential
code specialist. He is president of All About Homes, a residential inspection
company, and has been performing code and construction consultations since
1985. Readers may address their comments
to John Schneider, 24326 Mission
Blvd. Suite 7, Hayward,
Ca 94544. Fax number: 510 537-8666. Please include your phone number. Schneider will answer questions of general
interest in the paper. He reserves the right to edit the letter for brevity and
clarity. Readers are encouraged to contact a competent contractor or code
consultant for specific information regarding questions they may have about
their homes.
Copyright
2001, John R. Schneider, all rights reserved